NOVA Southeastern Course 2008

Today was ‘recovery day’ from the joys of the past 41 hours previously mentioned. We awoke to an introductory meeting on the deck to finally take pictures for our bios. Most people went out on the town to see the local culture and do some much needed shopping therapy (to some this included a trip to the massage parlor to attempt to relieve the 27 hours of 36 inch living space they call ‘coach class’). A few students took in the Aussie sun by the pool while others spent a few hours at the Esplanade (the ‘infinite pool’ located on the banks of a mudflat). All in all most of us took it easy. Several students took a few naps to combat the jetlag until around 4 when we had another meeting where we went over the plans for tomorrow and the weeks to come. Day two ended with dinner and the anticipation of boarding the boat tomorrow!

By Tandace Burkhart and Jessica Boyd.

Today we went to Norman Reef. We snorkeled in the morning and the afternoon. In the morning we went out at 10:00 AM and returned to the boat at 11:15 AM. The first dive was at Tropo’s on Norman Reef. The water temperature was around 26 ºC. During the first dive at Tropo’s, we had to record and draw ten species of fish while snorkeling. We accomplished this by using underwater slates. For our assignment we had to identify those ten species of fish and draw them into our journal later in the evening. The second snorkel trip was to Clipper, slightly south of Tropos. At Clipper, we got in the water around 2:00 PM and came out around 4:00 PM. The water temperature at Clipper was also 26 ºC. Students observed many species of fish, a few species of sharks, and a sea turtle.

By Lindsay Glassman

After a long night of fish drawings and identifications we woke up and refueled with the daily ration of bacon and baked beans. The first site for the day on Norman Reef was Caves, back reef with steep walls of coral giving way to deep channels. Today we started examining fish behavior as well as community structure and the interactions of the families with specific coral areas. Damselfishes (Pomocentrids) were prevalent on the reef crest within the coral branches and throughout the water column. Thus far over 130 species of fish in thirty families have been identified, including the Microdesmidae, first observed today. The afternoon snorkel entailed a trip by dingy to the fore reef, and then through the breakers on the fore reef itself. In the fore reef, we saw new fish assemblages and the open blue water descending to almost thirty meters. We worked our way along the edge of the fore reef, identifying as we went, and then traversed the reef crest and lagoon, with the waves pummeling us as we went. During our dive the reef zonation changed dramatically from heavy concentrations of coral to the rubble and patch areas in the lagoon. The prominent zonation patterns allowed us to compare communities between reef sites. Worn out, we swam towards Reef Quest, never appearing to get any closer. This evening, we were lowered from the duck board (dive platform) at the stern of the boat into the frenzied mouths of the Gray Reef Sharks, Trevallies, and Red Bass.

By Ethan Machemer & Lauren McCarthy.

Saxon Reef – Reef Magic
Morning 9:30-11:30am
We snorkeled today for about two hours. Another beautiful dive. The captain took us in the dingy across the reef flat where we entered the water in front of the fore reef where we turned along the reef and then eventually came across the reef crest and swam back to the boat. We saw two large green turtles. There were walls of fusiliers feeding on plankton in the water column just in front of the reef, and a grey reef shark also made an appearance. Looking under ledges we also saw a black spotted puffer and a giant moray. As we made our way back to the boat through the lagoon we saw a really big flowery rockcod that was under some coral. We swam over many different communities from sand to rubble and around the drop off in the fore reef. Again lots of fish but that is to be expected; IT’S A REEF! Swimming back to the boat Tandace and I saw a titan trigger fish, that was cool too.

Norman Reef – Troppos
2:30-4:00pm
Our objective on the afternoon dive was to observe and record fish behavior. We were to look at two different species of damselfish (family Pomacentridae) and note their habitat (whether algal turf or branching coral), location of their habitat, their size, if they were defensive in their habitat, if they were schooling or individual. We went looking and found a couple of red and black anemonefish (Amphiprion melanopus) living in an anemone. There were about two adults and six juveniles; some smaller than others. The adults spent most of their time rubbing their bodies on the anemone to impart the protection afforded by the host’s stinging cells (nematocysts). We also observed Ward’s damsel (Pomaentris wardi) living within branching coral. The species was very territorial. This fish wouldn’t let us get close to it at all without it picking up its dorsal spines to show us that he didn’t want us coming anywhere near his home. There was only one fish living in this branching coral and it would chase away any other fish that came by. We also had to observe a species of surgeon (family Acanthuridae) and record its feeding habits. Surgeon fish are herbivores and feed on benthic algae. We recorded a striped surgeon fish taking about 4-5 bites of algae then it moved to another piece of algae. We also saw a school of feeding parrotfish, and then we finally made our way back to the boat. Another great day of snorkeling on the GBR!

By Tandace Burkhart & Ashley Johnson

After a grueling week of seasickness, mile long swims, and backbreaking drawing, we were finally rewarded with a day-off! It’s hard to imagine a trip to paradise getting any better, but, oh, how it can! While some of us caught up on our growing mounds of work, others caught up on their tans, perfected their snorkeling / diving techniques, and relived the eighties through Bill and Ted’s Excellent Adventure and Top Gun. Although, the adventures of Bill and Ted provide never-ending excitement, the great reef outside provided some of its own excitement. The elusive clown triggerfish was finally spotted along with a hawksbill sea turtle and enormous puffer! The wonders never cease to amaze…. To finish the day, we celebrated Tandace’s birthday over dessert with a special “Happy Birthday” sung by the class and Ocean-Quest crew!

By Kate Dunlop & Sharein El-Tourky.

Today we examined coral distributions and communities. This gave us an opportunity to look more closely at individual coral heads and their associated cryptic fauna. We found many different varieties of fish and crustaceans living within these coral heads. A number of these species are specific to particular species of corals. Many of these cryptic taxa were things that we have swum over countless times before and didn’t even notice. The Great Barrier Reef is even more complex than any of us thought! Most of us are used to diving in the Florida Keys or other areas in the Caribbean where there is often less than five percent live coral cover. It has been remarkable for all of us to observe more than 80 percent live coral almost everywhere we go. Our assignment for the day was to observe coral distributions, growth patterns, and community dominance at several different sites and give a short presentation on our findings at our evening session. The resourceful ones in our group impressed us with their PowerPoint skills and underwater photography.

By Dina Benes & Bryan Armstrong

This morning we received a new assignment which was to go out and do our “final push” to identify as many damselfish (Pomacentridae) and butterflyfish (Chaetodontidae) to add to the species list. So we split up, some of us diving, some snorkeling, on a hunt for new species. Some students found new species but mostly it was the same ones we had been seeing for the past couple of days we’ve been analyzing the reef. We added a number of new species to the list and we now have 43 species of damsels and 21 species of butterflyfish.

On the second snorkel, we saw a bunch of new things. We saw two nudibranchs one in the genus Chromodorididae and the other in the genus Pseudobiceros. We also saw four Bigfin Reef Squid (Sepioteuthis lessoniana) schooling above the reef flat. We were able to get within inches of them and spent several minutes drifting over the reef watching their animated behavior and endless color changes. We also saw two white tip reef sharks (Triaenodon obesus) at different times. Those of us that went diving saw a large flatworm (Polyclad), a few new species of damselfish, a school of bumphead parrotfish (Bolbometopon muricatum) and a white tip reef shark (Triaenodon obesus).

After dinner, most of the students went on a night dive. Those of us staying behind went on the balcony and saw a number of grey reef sharks swimming around our boat waiting for the divers to enter the water. The night dive was a great experience. Tonight was a full moon so many species that might not otherwise be out in the open at night were out. The full moon also added extra light underwater, which made for a luminescent dive. We watched as the trevallies (Carangidae) chased the fish attracted to our flashlights and saw the green eyes of sharks swimming in the distance.

By Ashley Johnson & Lindsay Glassman

Today we started work on our projects, with topics involving various species of fish, corals, and invertebrates. We were anchored off of Norman Reef, and began the morning dives and snorkels at Shark Mountain; sadly there were none to be seen. However, we saw a school of Fistularids (flutemouths) and another massive Humphead Maori Wrasse (Cheilinus undulatus) passing by. In the afternoon, we headed back to the Playground site for more research, where sea turtles abounded and we saw fish species such as the Barred Soapfish (Diploprion bifasciatum). In the evening we listened to a lecture by Mick on the voyages of Capt. James Cook, gaining valuable perspective on all he achieved and his influence on Australian history. We settled in to another night of fish drawings amidst the write-ups of all our data collected during the day, while the rowdy Aussies on the boat cheered for their side in the State of Origin Rugby match.

The titles of the projects we are working on are listed below:

Bryan Armstrong – Male to Female Sex Ratios in Anemonefish
Dina Benes – Schooling of Fish: Comparisons at Depths and Species
Jessica Boyd – Corallivory Comparison in Relation to Reef Zones by Parrotfish
Tandace Burkhart – Anemonefish and Territorial Behavior
Kate Dunlop – A Comparison of Damselfish Habitats: Differences between Species and Sites
Sharein El-Tourky – Differences in Territorial Aggression of Pomacentrids Based on Feeding Preference
Lindsay Glassman – School of Fish: Comparisons at Depth and Species
Ashley Johnson – Anemonefish and Territorial Behavior
Ethan Machemer – Butterflyfish and Associated Coral Feeding Habits
Lauren McCarthy - Pocillopora eydouxi and its Associated Cryptic Species
Carolina Ricci – Bi-Color Chromis: Feeding Habits and Protective Coral

By Ethan Machemer & Lauren McCarthy

Today we continued to work on our projects in the aquatic realm of Norman Reef. About half the class snorkelled and the other half did SCUBA. The underwater adventures continued for yet another day as Tandace had a close encounter with an Undulated Moray Eel. Other excitements included a sighting of a Kuhl's Stingray, a large school of Bumphead Parrotfish, and a rare sighting of a starfish – Choriaster granulatus. The second last chance to swim on the reef was taken and most of us finished up collecting our data for our projects.
This evening we were treated to an insight into Australian culture and humour, courtesy of the movie Kenny. Then we all wound down after ice cream while listening to the crew band playing sea shanties on the back deck.

By: Magdalena Kwapinska and Carolina Ricchi.

We awoke this morning to grey skies and rain on the reef. Up until today, the weather has been ideal but it is our last full day of expeditions on the Ocean Quest, and the weather seems to be reflecting our sentiments about leaving the vessel. Some of us went out to dive or snorkel on the reef, while most of us stayed indoors, mostly working on our fish identifications. It seemed to be a very quiet day. We also had presentations to work on for tonight, on the research we were assigned to complete.
Tomorrow we will transfer onto the Reef Quest that will take us back to Cairns where we will have a free day (Sunday). Monday will be the day we will visit the rainforest, visit the Atherton Tablelands and cross the Great Dividing Range into the Australian Savannah where we will explore the lava tubes at Undara.

By Ashley Johnson & Sharein El-Tourky

After crossing an ocean, transecting the Great Barrier Reef, and crossing the Dividing Range with Dr. Thomas at wheel, we finally reached Undara—the heart of the Savannah outback. After retiring to our beds overcome with exhaustion and full bellies, we were awoken at 6:00am to a sound reminiscent of a dying cat (Australian Crow). It was our first morning in the outback and the birds were up, so we were up too.

Stepping out into the pre-dawn hours, we were greeted on our way to breakfast with even more bird cries and two Pretty Face wallabies out for a morning stroll. Its not everyday that you run into a wallaby on your way to breakfast, so you know you are either dreaming a really bizarre dream or you truly are in the outback. So after pinching ourselves a few times, we gobbled down our breakfasts and loaded up in the buses on our way to the Undara lava tubes.

The Undara lava tubes were formed approximately one hundred and ninety thousand years ago by a divergent event that caused molten oceanic crustal lava to spew from a crater, incinerate the land, and fill the surrounding countryside with basaltic lava. Eventually the lava’s surface began to cool and harden, while its molten center continued to flow. Once the eruption slowed and stopped the lava flowed out the far end of the tubes leaving the maze of tunnels we were to be traveling through today. These tunnels, used by the indigenous aboriginal peoples and now occupied only by species of micro and bent-wing bats, are massive arced structures extending from floor to ceiling. While some are easily transparent from one end to the other, others are pitch black throughout and require some careful maneuvering (and lights) to get inside. Within these shadowy depths are an array of wall markings that depict the succession of lava flows and water seepage through the area. Our helpful guide, Ross, pointed out such natural wonders as these throughout the morning until it was time for us to return to our cabins and explore the local area for some wonders of our very own…hiking, napping, star-gazing, and searching for the ever-so-mysterious kangaroos, kookaburras, and other wildlife.

By Kate Dunlop & Sharein El-Tourky.

Since most of the students have written at least three days of web logs Mick and I will take on the task of finishing up the last few days of daily logs for the students. Today, we left Mungalli Falls after breakfast and another successful morning of platypus spotting. It was notably quieter in the van as the students are beginning to realize the end of their Australian experience is just a few days away. The magnitude of their experience is coming into focus there is a sense of reflection and accomplishment in the air. I reminded the students of how much they have done and seen over the last few weeks, especially of Australian biodiversity and culture. They have come together as a class and have grown closer as a group.
From Mungalli we drove through Malanda and Atherton on our way to Granite Gorge just outside of Mareeba. Granite Gorge is a large granite outcrop that is home to a population of Mareeba Rock Wallabies, and endangered species that is protected and thrives amongst the rugged granitic landscape. Descending into the gorge the students were set upon by hungry Rock Wallabies seeking the bags of kangaroo chow we had been issued at the entrance to the gorge. Rock Wallabies are on the small side and have sharp claws that are well adapted for scampering up the granite escarpments. They showed little fear as they juggled and jostled for the food in the students’ outstretched hands. We spent two hours with the wallabies and then stopped in Mareeba to refuel the trucks and our stomachs. It was back on the road again over Mt Molloy, through Mossman, and across the Daintree River by cable ferry to Cape Tribulation where we made our way to Cape Tribulation Beach House, our last residence before heading back to Cairns in two days. The students quickly made plans to go jungle surfing and then congregated at the beach bar for refreshments and dinner. Our accommodations are situated in dense rainforest while only a hundred meters or so from a lovely sand beach. The sharp contrasts of habitats are notable as today we went from tropical wet rainforest, to dry savannah, back into the rainforest, along the coastal highway and across the Daintree River into the dense rain forest once again.

By Dr. Thomas

This day was given to the students as a final day to do a variety of activities including, jungle surfing, horseback riding, a beach walk at low tide, kayaking, exploring a rainforest creek, or just relaxing on the beach. The evening was spent reminiscing and reflecting on what everyone had done on the trip and for some who were staying on plans were made for various side trips and activities. Everyone turned in and tried to get a good nights sleep for the trip back to Cairns the following day.

By Dr. Thomas

Reflections from each of the students.

Sharein – This trip has exceeded my expectations at every step. It has been a fun, life-changing, learning experience. Our journey took us from the reef through the mountains, from the tablelands to the coast. My favorite memory is the day our group spent in the creek at Cape Tribulation. We were all aware that the end of the trip was near and we had so much fun just splashing around in the frigid rainforest water. It was that day that you could see the culmination of everything that had occurred during the trip: all our inside jokes, the bond we had formed with each other, and the appreciation and respect we all have for Dr. Thomas and Mick..

About the Instructors	About the Course	Daily Activity Log	Itinerary & Contacts
About the Students	Special Notes	Daily Images	Marine Insights HomePage

Date: May 9-11	Subject: Our flight to the "Land Down Under".
Our group flew out of Fort Lauderdale Airport on Friday May 9th around 1:00pm. We arrived at LAX International around 4:00pm PST, where an eight hour layover gave us plenty of time to visit the beach. We boarded our next flight around midnight. A long and tiring 15 hours later, we arrived in Sydney to find that we had missed our connecting flight. A two hour layover turned into a seven hour layover, in which some people left to go see the sights at Sydney Harbor while others stayed back at the airport. When the group rejoined at 3:00pm, we boarded our final flight that took us to Cairns. Forty one hours and two sunsets later, we had finally arrived. Dr. T and Mick were awaiting our arrival around 6:30pm to take us to the Northern Greenhouse Apartments. And so our adventure begins… By Bryan Armstrong & Dina Benes.
Date: May 12	Subject: You know you're jetlagged when....
Today was ‘recovery day’ from the joys of the past 41 hours previously mentioned. We awoke to an introductory meeting on the deck to finally take pictures for our bios. Most people went out on the town to see the local culture and do some much needed shopping therapy (to some this included a trip to the massage parlor to attempt to relieve the 27 hours of 36 inch living space they call ‘coach class’). A few students took in the Aussie sun by the pool while others spent a few hours at the Esplanade (the ‘infinite pool’ located on the banks of a mudflat). All in all most of us took it easy. Several students took a few naps to combat the jetlag until around 4 when we had another meeting where we went over the plans for tomorrow and the weeks to come. Day two ended with dinner and the anticipation of boarding the boat tomorrow! By Tandace Burkhart and Jessica Boyd.
Date: May 13	Subject: Heading to the Reef.
At the deathly hour of 6:00am, we awake from our racks sore, hungry, and grumpy. As we stumble from bed to bathroom, a dawning realization begins to come over us. We realize today is the day that we transfer to the Great Barrier Reef! Silently cursing ourselves for not having the foresight to pack the night before, we hurriedly begin to throw dive equipment, toothbrushes, and clothes into any bag we can find. Our excitement soon mixes with wonder and trepidation as we think of the fascinating marine life on the reef and the long bumpy boat ride out to it. Praying to avoid the sea-sickness curse, we pile our luggage into the van and drive off to meet the Reef Quest transfer boat and our fate. The Reef Quest transfer boat, at first glance, looks tame and unsuspecting, but upon closer inspection you realize it is an instrument of torture. From rolling waves to sloshing hulls, many of us were contemplating the potential reexamination of our breakfasts. An hour and a half later, we arrive at the Reef Quest that is anchored at Saxon Reef. Massive amounts of luggage are transferred. After a short briefing from the crewmembers and a ravenous lunch, we set out on our very first Great Barrier Reef experience for a “shake-down” snorkel. It sounds cliché, but words can’t describe the sheer amount and beauty of the reef. Teeming with fish, coral, invertebrates, turtles, and sharks, your eyes are continuously moving from left to right seemingly never taking in enough of the world surrounding you. It is in its essence a diver’s dream and a fish wonderland. One can only guess how we will ever learn it all. By Kate Dunlop & Sharein El-Tourky.
Date: May 14	Subject: Our day at Norman Reef.
Today we went to Norman Reef. We snorkeled in the morning and the afternoon. In the morning we went out at 10:00 AM and returned to the boat at 11:15 AM. The first dive was at Tropo’s on Norman Reef. The water temperature was around 26 ºC. During the first dive at Tropo’s, we had to record and draw ten species of fish while snorkeling. We accomplished this by using underwater slates. For our assignment we had to identify those ten species of fish and draw them into our journal later in the evening. The second snorkel trip was to Clipper, slightly south of Tropos. At Clipper, we got in the water around 2:00 PM and came out around 4:00 PM. The water temperature at Clipper was also 26 ºC. Students observed many species of fish, a few species of sharks, and a sea turtle. By Lindsay Glassman
Date: May 15	Subject: Being Tossed Around.
After a long night of fish drawings and identifications we woke up and refueled with the daily ration of bacon and baked beans. The first site for the day on Norman Reef was Caves, back reef with steep walls of coral giving way to deep channels. Today we started examining fish behavior as well as community structure and the interactions of the families with specific coral areas. Damselfishes (Pomocentrids) were prevalent on the reef crest within the coral branches and throughout the water column. Thus far over 130 species of fish in thirty families have been identified, including the Microdesmidae, first observed today. The afternoon snorkel entailed a trip by dingy to the fore reef, and then through the breakers on the fore reef itself. In the fore reef, we saw new fish assemblages and the open blue water descending to almost thirty meters. We worked our way along the edge of the fore reef, identifying as we went, and then traversed the reef crest and lagoon, with the waves pummeling us as we went. During our dive the reef zonation changed dramatically from heavy concentrations of coral to the rubble and patch areas in the lagoon. The prominent zonation patterns allowed us to compare communities between reef sites. Worn out, we swam towards Reef Quest, never appearing to get any closer. This evening, we were lowered from the duck board (dive platform) at the stern of the boat into the frenzied mouths of the Gray Reef Sharks, Trevallies, and Red Bass. By Ethan Machemer & Lauren McCarthy.
Date: May 16	Subject: A Day at Saxon Reef.
Today was our first day of SCUBA diving although half of the group chose to snorkel. The snorkel group entered the maze of the reef flat on the rising tide and was able to observe a number of different reef flat and lagoon habitats. The water was calm and the sun was out, a superb day of snorkeling. Our four dives and snorkeling sites included various locations on Saxon Reef. On SCUBA we successfully completed three dives during the day and one night dive. Some of the exciting sea life encountered was a large hammerhead shark seen by the snorkelers, a white tip shark, a hawksbill turtle, and a ragged fin firefish seen by the SCUBA divers. The visibility during our third dive was significantly lesser that the other morning dives but the excitement was made up by the suspense of the night dive. Some of us experienced the night dive for the first time and had to use a guide. This night dive was an incredible and unforgettable experience that we will all cherish forever. By: Magdalena Kwapinska and Carolina Ricchi
Date: May 17	Subject: Another Day on the Reef.
Saxon Reef – Reef Magic Morning 9:30-11:30am We snorkeled today for about two hours. Another beautiful dive. The captain took us in the dingy across the reef flat where we entered the water in front of the fore reef where we turned along the reef and then eventually came across the reef crest and swam back to the boat. We saw two large green turtles. There were walls of fusiliers feeding on plankton in the water column just in front of the reef, and a grey reef shark also made an appearance. Looking under ledges we also saw a black spotted puffer and a giant moray. As we made our way back to the boat through the lagoon we saw a really big flowery rockcod that was under some coral. We swam over many different communities from sand to rubble and around the drop off in the fore reef. Again lots of fish but that is to be expected; IT’S A REEF! Swimming back to the boat Tandace and I saw a titan trigger fish, that was cool too. Norman Reef – Troppos 2:30-4:00pm Our objective on the afternoon dive was to observe and record fish behavior. We were to look at two different species of damselfish (family Pomacentridae) and note their habitat (whether algal turf or branching coral), location of their habitat, their size, if they were defensive in their habitat, if they were schooling or individual. We went looking and found a couple of red and black anemonefish (Amphiprion melanopus) living in an anemone. There were about two adults and six juveniles; some smaller than others. The adults spent most of their time rubbing their bodies on the anemone to impart the protection afforded by the host’s stinging cells (nematocysts). We also observed Ward’s damsel (Pomaentris wardi) living within branching coral. The species was very territorial. This fish wouldn’t let us get close to it at all without it picking up its dorsal spines to show us that he didn’t want us coming anywhere near his home. There was only one fish living in this branching coral and it would chase away any other fish that came by. We also had to observe a species of surgeon (family Acanthuridae) and record its feeding habits. Surgeon fish are herbivores and feed on benthic algae. We recorded a striped surgeon fish taking about 4-5 bites of algae then it moved to another piece of algae. We also saw a school of feeding parrotfish, and then we finally made our way back to the boat. Another great day of snorkeling on the GBR! By Tandace Burkhart & Ashley Johnson
Date: May 18	Subject: A Rest Day on the Reef.
After a grueling week of seasickness, mile long swims, and backbreaking drawing, we were finally rewarded with a day-off! It’s hard to imagine a trip to paradise getting any better, but, oh, how it can! While some of us caught up on our growing mounds of work, others caught up on their tans, perfected their snorkeling / diving techniques, and relived the eighties through Bill and Ted’s Excellent Adventure and Top Gun. Although, the adventures of Bill and Ted provide never-ending excitement, the great reef outside provided some of its own excitement. The elusive clown triggerfish was finally spotted along with a hawksbill sea turtle and enormous puffer! The wonders never cease to amaze…. To finish the day, we celebrated Tandace’s birthday over dessert with a special “Happy Birthday” sung by the class and Ocean-Quest crew! By Kate Dunlop & Sharein El-Tourky.
Date: May 19	Subject: A Day Examining Coral Communities
Today we examined coral distributions and communities. This gave us an opportunity to look more closely at individual coral heads and their associated cryptic fauna. We found many different varieties of fish and crustaceans living within these coral heads. A number of these species are specific to particular species of corals. Many of these cryptic taxa were things that we have swum over countless times before and didn’t even notice. The Great Barrier Reef is even more complex than any of us thought! Most of us are used to diving in the Florida Keys or other areas in the Caribbean where there is often less than five percent live coral cover. It has been remarkable for all of us to observe more than 80 percent live coral almost everywhere we go. Our assignment for the day was to observe coral distributions, growth patterns, and community dominance at several different sites and give a short presentation on our findings at our evening session. The resourceful ones in our group impressed us with their PowerPoint skills and underwater photography. By Dina Benes & Bryan Armstrong
Date: May 20	Subject: The final Push to Identify new Pomacentrids & Chaetodontids
This morning we received a new assignment which was to go out and do our “final push” to identify as many damselfish (Pomacentridae) and butterflyfish (Chaetodontidae) to add to the species list. So we split up, some of us diving, some snorkeling, on a hunt for new species. Some students found new species but mostly it was the same ones we had been seeing for the past couple of days we’ve been analyzing the reef. We added a number of new species to the list and we now have 43 species of damsels and 21 species of butterflyfish. On the second snorkel, we saw a bunch of new things. We saw two nudibranchs one in the genus Chromodorididae and the other in the genus Pseudobiceros. We also saw four Bigfin Reef Squid (Sepioteuthis lessoniana) schooling above the reef flat. We were able to get within inches of them and spent several minutes drifting over the reef watching their animated behavior and endless color changes. We also saw two white tip reef sharks (Triaenodon obesus) at different times. Those of us that went diving saw a large flatworm (Polyclad), a few new species of damselfish, a school of bumphead parrotfish (Bolbometopon muricatum) and a white tip reef shark (Triaenodon obesus). After dinner, most of the students went on a night dive. Those of us staying behind went on the balcony and saw a number of grey reef sharks swimming around our boat waiting for the divers to enter the water. The night dive was a great experience. Tonight was a full moon so many species that might not otherwise be out in the open at night were out. The full moon also added extra light underwater, which made for a luminescent dive. We watched as the trevallies (Carangidae) chased the fish attracted to our flashlights and saw the green eyes of sharks swimming in the distance. By Ashley Johnson & Lindsay Glassman
Date: May 21	Subject: Starting on our Projects
Today we started work on our projects, with topics involving various species of fish, corals, and invertebrates. We were anchored off of Norman Reef, and began the morning dives and snorkels at Shark Mountain; sadly there were none to be seen. However, we saw a school of Fistularids (flutemouths) and another massive Humphead Maori Wrasse (Cheilinus undulatus) passing by. In the afternoon, we headed back to the Playground site for more research, where sea turtles abounded and we saw fish species such as the Barred Soapfish (Diploprion bifasciatum). In the evening we listened to a lecture by Mick on the voyages of Capt. James Cook, gaining valuable perspective on all he achieved and his influence on Australian history. We settled in to another night of fish drawings amidst the write-ups of all our data collected during the day, while the rowdy Aussies on the boat cheered for their side in the State of Origin Rugby match. The titles of the projects we are working on are listed below: Bryan Armstrong – Male to Female Sex Ratios in Anemonefish Dina Benes – Schooling of Fish: Comparisons at Depths and Species Jessica Boyd – Corallivory Comparison in Relation to Reef Zones by Parrotfish Tandace Burkhart – Anemonefish and Territorial Behavior Kate Dunlop – A Comparison of Damselfish Habitats: Differences between Species and Sites Sharein El-Tourky – Differences in Territorial Aggression of Pomacentrids Based on Feeding Preference Lindsay Glassman – School of Fish: Comparisons at Depth and Species Ashley Johnson – Anemonefish and Territorial Behavior Ethan Machemer – Butterflyfish and Associated Coral Feeding Habits Lauren McCarthy - Pocillopora eydouxi and its Associated Cryptic Species Carolina Ricci – Bi-Color Chromis: Feeding Habits and Protective Coral By Ethan Machemer & Lauren McCarthy
Date: May 22	Subject: Another Day working on our Projects
Today we continued to work on our projects in the aquatic realm of Norman Reef. About half the class snorkelled and the other half did SCUBA. The underwater adventures continued for yet another day as Tandace had a close encounter with an Undulated Moray Eel. Other excitements included a sighting of a Kuhl's Stingray, a large school of Bumphead Parrotfish, and a rare sighting of a starfish – Choriaster granulatus. The second last chance to swim on the reef was taken and most of us finished up collecting our data for our projects. This evening we were treated to an insight into Australian culture and humour, courtesy of the movie Kenny. Then we all wound down after ice cream while listening to the crew band playing sea shanties on the back deck. By: Magdalena Kwapinska and Carolina Ricchi.
Date: May 23	Subject: Finishing Up Our Projects
We awoke this morning to grey skies and rain on the reef. Up until today, the weather has been ideal but it is our last full day of expeditions on the Ocean Quest, and the weather seems to be reflecting our sentiments about leaving the vessel. Some of us went out to dive or snorkel on the reef, while most of us stayed indoors, mostly working on our fish identifications. It seemed to be a very quiet day. We also had presentations to work on for tonight, on the research we were assigned to complete. Tomorrow we will transfer onto the Reef Quest that will take us back to Cairns where we will have a free day (Sunday). Monday will be the day we will visit the rainforest, visit the Atherton Tablelands and cross the Great Dividing Range into the Australian Savannah where we will explore the lava tubes at Undara. By Ashley Johnson & Sharein El-Tourky
Date: May 23	Subject: Reflections of Our Time on The Reef.
A note from the instructors: It is our last full evening on the reef and the students have just finished presenting the results of their reef projects. This was done while the ship was rolling due to some high winds and seas but everyone held on and the presentations were well received by the class, staff, and guests. A moment to reflect back on this sojourn on the Great Barrier Reef emphasizes how much has been accomplished in a short amount of time. The class has become familiar with reef habitats, fish, coral, and other invertebrate species. They have seen and done things that many marine biologists never get the chance to experience. We have recorded over 300 species of fish and the students have gained in academic and water-based skills. As an instructor it is gratifying to watch the progression from tentative and timid to experienced and confident. We head for the mainland tomorrow to start the land portion of the trip that will have its own surprises and experiences. The close living quarters and rapid pace of the class while on the Ocean Quest has helped the class bond as a group. Undergraduates and graduates work and study side by side as equals and everyone plays a part in the overall success of the class. I commend them all for their efforts. The following are selected memories and comments from some of the students: The most memorable part of this trip for me so far was the first time we got to get into the water to see the Great Barrier Reef. I had been looking forward to seeing it for so long and I didn’t really know what to expect. What I saw was so far beyond my expectations. The ability to dive or snorkel on this reef whenever I wanted for the last two weeks has been one of the greatest experiences of my life. I cannot wait to come back as a professional marine biologist. –Bryan Armstrong With over a million things going on around you in the Great Barrier Reef, it’s hard to pick one moment in time that stands out from the others. However, if I had to pick one, it would have to be my second to last day on the reef. On this day, we transected the fore-reef of Norman and I finally got a good picture of a whitetip shark. I also got caught in a herd of humphead parrotfish and lived to tell the tale! -Kate Dunlop My most memorable underwater moment was the first time I saw a sea turtle on the reef. I think everyone had seen one but me, until finally, on one snorkel trip, I saw my first sea turtle! The first one I saw was a hawksbill and then just shortly after, we saw a green sea turtle. The green sea turtle was very large and let us swim along for twenty to thirty minutes. It was quite a memorable day. -Lindsay Glassman Words cannot begin to explain the beauty I have seen here on the Great Barrier Reef. When you are first immersed all you see are flashes of vibrant colors from the reef fishes. Gradually you begin to notice differences and learn the names of the different species. As you snorkel you start to recite names and thoughts in your head of the fish you know. There is an unexplainable feeling of excitement on seeing a new fish for the first time. An even better feeling is when you come back and identify the fish in a reef book and you can say I saw that fish. The invertebrates are also equally as amazing. I loved seeing the giant clam for the first time, the blue sea stars, and the bright little nudibranchs. The diversity of life is awe inspiring and makes you speechless as you reflect on what you have seen each day. I wish everyone could have the opportunity I had in visiting the Great Barrier Reef. Cheers Mate! -Lauren McCarthy My most memorable moment here on the Great Barrier Reef was seeing a Great Hammerhead shark. We were snorkeling in the reef flat in about 3 to 4 feet of water when I glanced up to take a look at where I was on the reef and saw this huge shark swimming slowly in the distance. I was frozen for a good 30 seconds while it came across the reef…I don’t think it really registered in my brain what I was actually seeing until I saw the shape of the head and beady eyes on the side of it. Luckily it had no interest in me, and swam away. It was at this point I was able to move and reach for my camera. I was able to take a picture although not a very clear one. Mick toggled with the colors of the picture in Photoshop when I got back to the boat, and identified it. He said that it was nearly 3-4 meters in length! I will never forget seeing that! - Dina Benes
Date: May 24 & 25	Subject: Leaving the Reef & a day of Rest.
On Saturday, we packed up all of our stuff to get ready for our transfer back to land. Sad to be leaving the reef, we moved an entire boat’s worth of luggage and boarded the Reef Quest and laid a course back to Cairns. After arriving at the dock, we loaded the buses (again with heaps of luggage) and returned to the Northern Greenhouse Apartments. We were all very disappointed to leave the Great Barrier Reef, but it was nice to stand on solid ground once again. Once we got our land legs back under us, we met for a farewell dinner with the crew from the Ocean Quest. Sunday was our “rest” day, but it was spent doing laundry and gathering essentials for our trip into the outback and the rainforest. We are looking forward to the adventures that are in store for us this week. By Bryan Armstrong & Dina Benes.
Date: May 26 & 27	Subject: Across the Great Divide into the Outback
After crossing an ocean, transecting the Great Barrier Reef, and crossing the Dividing Range with Dr. Thomas at wheel, we finally reached Undara—the heart of the Savannah outback. After retiring to our beds overcome with exhaustion and full bellies, we were awoken at 6:00am to a sound reminiscent of a dying cat (Australian Crow). It was our first morning in the outback and the birds were up, so we were up too. Stepping out into the pre-dawn hours, we were greeted on our way to breakfast with even more bird cries and two Pretty Face wallabies out for a morning stroll. Its not everyday that you run into a wallaby on your way to breakfast, so you know you are either dreaming a really bizarre dream or you truly are in the outback. So after pinching ourselves a few times, we gobbled down our breakfasts and loaded up in the buses on our way to the Undara lava tubes. The Undara lava tubes were formed approximately one hundred and ninety thousand years ago by a divergent event that caused molten oceanic crustal lava to spew from a crater, incinerate the land, and fill the surrounding countryside with basaltic lava. Eventually the lava’s surface began to cool and harden, while its molten center continued to flow. Once the eruption slowed and stopped the lava flowed out the far end of the tubes leaving the maze of tunnels we were to be traveling through today. These tunnels, used by the indigenous aboriginal peoples and now occupied only by species of micro and bent-wing bats, are massive arced structures extending from floor to ceiling. While some are easily transparent from one end to the other, others are pitch black throughout and require some careful maneuvering (and lights) to get inside. Within these shadowy depths are an array of wall markings that depict the succession of lava flows and water seepage through the area. Our helpful guide, Ross, pointed out such natural wonders as these throughout the morning until it was time for us to return to our cabins and explore the local area for some wonders of our very own…hiking, napping, star-gazing, and searching for the ever-so-mysterious kangaroos, kookaburras, and other wildlife. By Kate Dunlop & Sharein El-Tourky.
Date: May 28	Subject: Getting up close and personal with some of Australia's snakes.
This morning, most of us woke up before the sun came up so that we could see the beautiful sunrise at Undara. We walked up the Bluff Trail with the moonlight guiding us to the large rocks that over look a large plateau with volcano peaks in the distance. The sun started rising and there were beautiful colors streaking through the sky: pinks purples and blues. Once it finally peaked through the clouds we went back to camp for our final bush “brekkie”. We left Undara after a hearty breakfast, and were on our way to visit Russell the snake handler in Mt. Surprise (population 64). While he was giving us some facts about snakes and what are the best first aid methods for snakebite, he brought out various snakes for us to observe. Of the 25 most venomous snakes in the world, Australia has 21, and the first 11 “straight up”. The deadliest snake in the world is the inland Taipan (Oxyuranus microlepidotus). We saw and handled a brown tree snake (Boiga irregularis), a black-headed python (Aspidites melanocephalus), a coastal carpet snake (Morelia spilota), and a water python (Liasis mackloti). We were able keep them with us, letting them move all around our necks and torsos. For those interested Russel fed the Taipan and black-headed python. The former disables its prey with venom, and the latter is a constrictor. After the snake visit, we had some lunch and were on our way back to Atherton, approximately two hours from Mt. Surprise. On the way we passed from dry savannah to wet savannah, and tropical wet forests. Around four o’clock we arrived at Mungalli Falls where we will be staying for the next two nights. After we checked in and settled in our cabins, we all piled into the back of the wombat (Mick’s diesel Nissan Patrol Cab 4WD truck) for an exciting ride to the waterfall. It was a gorgeous waterfall and everyone got really great pictures. At dusk we went for a walk to search for the elusive platypus, with none to be found. We will search again at first light in the morning. By Ashley Johnson & Lindsay Glassman
Date: May 29	Subject: First Platypus & Giant Spider Sightings
The day began at 5:30 am for some to try to spot the elusive duck bill platypus. Success! One group spotted three platypi, and the other four platypi. At breakfast we became shockingly aware of a giant golden orb spider, perched above the dirty dish return area. Brian was very nervous after finding out it was indeed a real spider and not a large rubber simulated spider. After brekkie, we ventured out to the most photographed waterfall in Australia, Millaa Millaa Falls, an apt title, as it was simply breathtaking. A select group braved the chilly water and scrambled along the basalt outcrop behind the waterfall. This also marked our first encounter with leeches, and we watched with surprise as they attached to toes and ankles and grew before our eyes. The next stop was Lake Barrine, a volcanic crater lake surrounded by rain forest. We observed a variety of dense, plant life, taking everything in slowly, but after only traversing two of the five kilometers, we picked up the pace to complete the entire circuit. After the arduous hike we gathered in the van for a short trip to Malanda for lunch. On the way back to the cabins we stopped at Mungalli Creek Dairy, an organic dairy farm, to splurge on some delectable cakes and treats while enjoying a spectacular view of the valley below. After a well deserved rest we again searched for the platypus in vain. At dinner we again viewed our giant friend and said goodnight to Mungalli falls. By Ethan Machemar & Lauren McCarthy
Date: May 30	Subject: From The Atherton Tablelands to Cape Tribulation.
Since most of the students have written at least three days of web logs Mick and I will take on the task of finishing up the last few days of daily logs for the students. Today, we left Mungalli Falls after breakfast and another successful morning of platypus spotting. It was notably quieter in the van as the students are beginning to realize the end of their Australian experience is just a few days away. The magnitude of their experience is coming into focus there is a sense of reflection and accomplishment in the air. I reminded the students of how much they have done and seen over the last few weeks, especially of Australian biodiversity and culture. They have come together as a class and have grown closer as a group. From Mungalli we drove through Malanda and Atherton on our way to Granite Gorge just outside of Mareeba. Granite Gorge is a large granite outcrop that is home to a population of Mareeba Rock Wallabies, and endangered species that is protected and thrives amongst the rugged granitic landscape. Descending into the gorge the students were set upon by hungry Rock Wallabies seeking the bags of kangaroo chow we had been issued at the entrance to the gorge. Rock Wallabies are on the small side and have sharp claws that are well adapted for scampering up the granite escarpments. They showed little fear as they juggled and jostled for the food in the students’ outstretched hands. We spent two hours with the wallabies and then stopped in Mareeba to refuel the trucks and our stomachs. It was back on the road again over Mt Molloy, through Mossman, and across the Daintree River by cable ferry to Cape Tribulation where we made our way to Cape Tribulation Beach House, our last residence before heading back to Cairns in two days. The students quickly made plans to go jungle surfing and then congregated at the beach bar for refreshments and dinner. Our accommodations are situated in dense rainforest while only a hundred meters or so from a lovely sand beach. The sharp contrasts of habitats are notable as today we went from tropical wet rainforest, to dry savannah, back into the rainforest, along the coastal highway and across the Daintree River into the dense rain forest once again. By Dr. Thomas
Date: May 31	Subject: A Day at Cape Tribulation.
This day was given to the students as a final day to do a variety of activities including, jungle surfing, horseback riding, a beach walk at low tide, kayaking, exploring a rainforest creek, or just relaxing on the beach. The evening was spent reminiscing and reflecting on what everyone had done on the trip and for some who were staying on plans were made for various side trips and activities. Everyone turned in and tried to get a good nights sleep for the trip back to Cairns the following day. By Dr. Thomas
Reflections from each of the students.
Sharein – This trip has exceeded my expectations at every step. It has been a fun, life-changing, learning experience. Our journey took us from the reef through the mountains, from the tablelands to the coast. My favorite memory is the day our group spent in the creek at Cape Tribulation. We were all aware that the end of the trip was near and we had so much fun just splashing around in the frigid rainforest water. It was that day that you could see the culmination of everything that had occurred during the trip: all our inside jokes, the bond we had formed with each other, and the appreciation and respect we all have for Dr. Thomas and Mick.. Tandace – As our Australian adventure draws to a close, I realize what an extraordinary experience this has been. I have experienced things that very few people can say they have ever done and I’ve had an amazing time experiencing them. The best memory of this trip was the night that several of us were out in Undara looking at the stars and we could see the Milky Way. The simplicity of that moment made me realize how much of a great experience this has all been. From the boat portion to the land portion, I’ve learned so much about Australia and myself. I am thankful for the chance to come here and I am especially grateful that Dr. T and Mick have put so much work into this trip to help make it great for all of us. Ashley – This trip has certainly been a journey that I will never forget. It was simply amazing to be able to see how different the environments are in this country; from rainforests to desert and the Great Barrier Reef. I have many memories that are etched into my mind and will remain there forever, but my most memorable moment had to be when we initially got to the reef and I realized how scared I was to get into the water. That day was one of the scariest moments of my life. I appreciate Dr. Thomas for pushing me to swim everyday to get over my fears, and I did. That in itself makes this trip worth while. I have learned so much about myself that I never knew before, and experienced things many people will never know. I am so grateful to have been able to come to Australia. Thank you Dr. T and Mick for everything you have done to make this trip possible for all of us! Dina – This trip has been an absolute dream come true for me. I would like to thank Dr. Thomas and Mick for organizing such an amazing trip. We were able to experience so many things in Australia such as seeing kangaroos and wallaby’s, hearing Kookaburras laugh, and handling a Black-headed Python. I enjoyed every part of the trip, however diving the Great Barrier Reef by far was my best experience. I will never forget swimming along the reef and seeing so many brightly colored fish and corals (and thanks to Dr. T and Mick, I now know most of their names!) I will cherish this experience forever! Lindsay – This trip has been amazing. I am so lucky to have been able to participate in this and experience Australia in such a great way. I will always remember this trip and the great things I got to do while I was here. I can’t believe I can now say I went SCUBA diving on the Great Barrier Reef and jungle surfing through the rainforest! Everything we did on this trip was so much fun and made for such wonderful experiences. Thanks to Dr. T and Mick for making this possible and memorable! Jess- This trip for me has really been a once in a lifetime experience. Looking back I am now realizing the intensity and diversity of all the things we did. It’s hard to imagine that just a few weeks ago I had no idea just how strong the diversity of one reef can be or how easily a sunset over the outback can take my breath away (or just how much one can never want to draw another fish again!). The beauty of this country has truly stunned me and I’m so appreciative to be able to see all the sights and have all the experiences of the last month to take with me. Not to mention the never-ending stories to share – both serious and immeasurably humorous! The people I’ve met have defiantly impacted me to ‘chill out’ and be a little less stressed in life, as literally everyone here has told me and something that will defiantly be in the back of my mind every day - ‘no worries mate!’ Ethan-The time here has seemed like a dream, it doesn’t seem real all that I saw, and all I experienced. Seeing the Palette Surgeonfish, and the Clown Triggerfish in the wild (species I have known since I was very young), the fluidity of their motion, shyness, and coloration is amazing in that they blend in, and distinguish themselves from the reef structure. Corals in every hue, stretching as far as the eye can see - it gives me joy to know there are these spectacular and jaw dropping locales out there. Inundated with such a wealth of diversity, has left me with a more discerning eye for identifying characteristics and for distinguishing between the nuances in not just this but many arenas. I’m drawing comparisons between here and familiar, beloved locations in the States, and it speaks to how significant being on the GBR and in the Wet Tropics has affected me, it almost feels as if I’ve come home. It will certainly shape my perspective towards how I look at my work and the world. Carolina - To say this trip has been a blast would not be enough. ‘Amazing’ is putting it into better perspective. I have enjoyed every single moment, and I have seen and done things that I I’ve always wanted to see and do. Joining everyone each day and exploring the Great Barrier Reef and the great rainforests has been one of the most beautiful journeys I have ever experienced. The one thing I most definitely enjoyed the most was the time spent on the boat, for the first two weeks. The reef seemed more beautiful each day, and the creatures inhabiting it were just fantastic! Along with diving, snorkeling and swimming with sharks and sea turtles, I took spectacular pictures of the sunrise and sunset that took my breath away. This has been an unforgettable voyage, and meeting new people and making new friends has been the highlight of the trip, as well! It wouldn’t have been as much fun without everyone, and the great Professor Thomas, of course! Coming back to Australia is definitely on my ‘to do’ list in the future! Kate- Within the past three weeks we have traveled across the Pacific Ocean, journeyed up the Australian coastline onto the Great Barrier Reef, braved the harsh desert weather of the outback, and ventured deeper into the rainforest than any class before us. Looking back, it’s hard to pick one specific moment that stands out among all the others. However, I have experienced many “firsts” on this trip that will forever hold a special place in my memories: my first time seeing the Pacific Ocean; my first time on the Great Barrier Reef and seeing a shark in the flesh; my first time spending two weeks on a boat and living in cramped spaces and cabin food; my first time seeing a kangaroo and wallaby in the wild and journeying through a maze of lava tubes; my first time in the rainforest and swinging through the trees like a monkey; and, finally, my first time in Australia, but most surely not my last. So in conclusion, this trip was an amazing experience and I won’t soon forget all the memorable times and great adventures that I had on it. Bryan- This entire trip has been one of the best experiences of my life. I have seen and done so many amazing things over the last three weeks. From the Great Barrier Reef to the Outback to the Wet Tropics rainforest, every day has offered a new once-in-a-lifetime experience. I am definitely not ready to leave, so I hope that it will not be too long before I can come back to Australia. Lauren -I cannot believe how quickly our time has gone by in Australia. It has been an amazing experience that I will never forget. I have never seen so many stars as I did under the Undara sky. The colors of the sunrise over the ocean at Cape Tribulation are forever etched in my memory. These are just a few of the memories I take with me from Australia. I hope I will someday have the chance to return to this wonderful place.